At Routeburn Flats campsite. It’s (my niece) Rachel’s birthday today - I’ll post her a card tomorrow when I get back to “civilisation”. It’s funny to think - when I was her age (23), I’d just spent 10 years living in Australia and hadn’t seen any uncles, aunts or cousins during that time, and had never lived in the same town as any of them.
I had a reasonable sleep last night, albeit somewhat broken thanks to some back pain. I got up before 7, had breakfast, packed up and got going by 8. Took about 5 ½ hours to get here. I’ll need to be walking by the same time tomorrow to be sure I make the 10am shuttle.
The walk today wasn’t too taxing - contrary to what people said last night. It was a little easier than yesterday but a bit longer too. After some of the epic walking I’ve done lately, it’s been very easy and enjoyable. There’s been a near-constant drizzle all day but no really heavy rain since last night. I didn’t see anyone along the track for the first 2 ½ hours of walking - I really felt alone in the wilderness, which was great and also a little intimidating thanks to the strong winds and rain. I got a few glimpses along the Hollyford Valley section of the track of towering, snow-clad peaks across the valley.
There were some stairs just before the Harris Saddle and with my head down, approaching them from beneath, I stepped onto them before I realised there was a woman waiting at the top. I smiled at her and said “hello” but she simply glared back. I made it to the top of the stairs and smiled at the lady again but she simply continued glaring then, after a few seconds, said “thank you” rather pointedly and bustled off muttering curses to herself (or at me) in German. A bit further along the track, past the saddle, I encountered a New Zealand couple walking up to the saddle for the day. The woman asked me what it was like along the Hollyford Valley section - were there steep drop-offs from the path? She said she was planning to do the whole track the next day, but was afraid of heights and wasn’t sure about that section. I said I didn’t think it’d be a problem, that the path was well-made. I’m not sure if she was completely convinced and rightly so - I’m fortunate not to suffer from vertigo, even if I have developed a very healthy respect for the laws of gravity.
The views once I passed the Harris Saddle were much clearer. Routeburn Falls hut was spectacularly placed, with the private Routeburn Falls lodge immediately behind it. This is where 5-6 people had been helicoptered out from over the past couple of days, due to an outbreak of the highly infectious Norovirus - nasty stuff that had me washing my hands constantly when camped for the night! In spite of the Falls hut’s spectacular location, I actually prefer it down here in the valley, looking across to the giant foot of the mountains - tree-clad right down to the grassy river plain. It’s pretty much stopped raining and the sun might even be trying to come out.
I’m glad I’m staying here tonight - it would’ve been easy enough to walk out to the end of the track in another two hours or so - this whole area is a magical place.
I felt again today, just once or twice, that being up in the mountains actually scares me a bit. I like admiring them from down here! I prefer views up to views down.
Sitting outside now with time on my hands. There’s a roaring waterfall back where I came from today, fast-flowing mountain river cutting through the plain, grass moving in the wind, mountains standing silently. Another blessed place in this blessed land.
I’m still so looking forward to getting home, but it’s interesting to consider how I’ll remember this time once it’s over. In spite of the adverse weather conditions, I’ll certainly look back on it fondly - another chapter in my book of New Zealand experiences. It’s the first time I’ve come to New Zealand and only visited the South Island, Te Wai Pounamu. Next time it’ll most likely be Te Ika o Maui, the north.
Just listened to Together Alone by Crowded House - te aroha, that’s all that matters in the end.
This sacred, blessed land. When I die, my spirit will come and haunt this place - gliding through the darkness under the moss-covered trees, soaring along the light-filled valleys, laughing at the sea’s sun-sparkled waters.
What overwhelming presence dwells in this place. Each mountain peak is a silent, living presence.
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| Glimpses across the Hollyford Valley |
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| Hollyford Valley |
There were some stairs just before the Harris Saddle and with my head down, approaching them from beneath, I stepped onto them before I realised there was a woman waiting at the top. I smiled at her and said “hello” but she simply glared back. I made it to the top of the stairs and smiled at the lady again but she simply continued glaring then, after a few seconds, said “thank you” rather pointedly and bustled off muttering curses to herself (or at me) in German. A bit further along the track, past the saddle, I encountered a New Zealand couple walking up to the saddle for the day. The woman asked me what it was like along the Hollyford Valley section - were there steep drop-offs from the path? She said she was planning to do the whole track the next day, but was afraid of heights and wasn’t sure about that section. I said I didn’t think it’d be a problem, that the path was well-made. I’m not sure if she was completely convinced and rightly so - I’m fortunate not to suffer from vertigo, even if I have developed a very healthy respect for the laws of gravity.
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| Towards Mount Aspiring |
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| Routeburn Flats from Routeburn Falls hut |
I’m glad I’m staying here tonight - it would’ve been easy enough to walk out to the end of the track in another two hours or so - this whole area is a magical place.
I felt again today, just once or twice, that being up in the mountains actually scares me a bit. I like admiring them from down here! I prefer views up to views down.
Sitting outside now with time on my hands. There’s a roaring waterfall back where I came from today, fast-flowing mountain river cutting through the plain, grass moving in the wind, mountains standing silently. Another blessed place in this blessed land.
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| Routeburn Flats campsite |
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| Route Burn |
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| Routeburn Flats |
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| Yay, it's stopped raining (sort of)! |
Just listened to Together Alone by Crowded House - te aroha, that’s all that matters in the end.
This sacred, blessed land. When I die, my spirit will come and haunt this place - gliding through the darkness under the moss-covered trees, soaring along the light-filled valleys, laughing at the sea’s sun-sparkled waters.
What overwhelming presence dwells in this place. Each mountain peak is a silent, living presence.
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